How to Hang Drywall

1. Check Wall Studs and Mark Lines

   Check the studs and joists for bows or twists before you start hanging the drywall. The finished walls will look best if the studs are as flat as possible.

   • Visually inspect the studs or joists to see if they are aligned in a straight plane.
   • Hold a long, straight board or level across the framing to confirm alignment.
   • If any framing members stick out, trim them with a saw or a power planer.
   • Fill in low spots with drywall shims attached with nails or glue.
   • Run the head of the hammer up and down the studs (for remodels, not new-construction drywall installation) to check for stray screws or nails that will impede the drywall.
   • Mark electrical and plumbing lines so you do not accidentally drill or nail into them when hanging drywall. Consider using nail guard plates on studs for protection.

   Tip

   Drywall can be installed by yourself, but it’s recommended to have an assistant. They can help you lift the sheets, position them, and hold them in place while you tack them in with nails or screws.

2. Measure the Drywall

   • Measure the height and length of your walls.
   • Measure your ceiling (if you are drywalling the ceiling).
   • The measurements are necessary to estimate the amount of drywall you need to purchase.
   • Choose the best size panels to fit your room. Drywall panels come in different sizes and thicknesses. The standard sizes are 4 feet by 8 feet, 4 feet by 12 feet, and 4 by 16 feet. The correct size panels can reduce the amount of seams you have and the amount of finishing necessary.
   • Plan out the drywall installation on paper to determine whether it's best to hang the panels horizontally or vertically to reduce seams and non-tapered butt joints.
     

3. Cut the Drywall

   Cut the drywall to fit. It's rare to have a square room, which means cutting drywall to fit an area.

   • Score the drywall on the lighter-colored side. Using a sharp utility knife and a T-square, cut just through the paper and barely into the core of the drywall.
   • Snap the scored piece. It may snap off completely or you will need to complete the cut by using your knife to cut through the rest of the paper.
   • Make lots of fast, small movements when using a drywall saw. Long, slow sawing flexes and breaks drywall.
   • Measure, mark, and cut out openings for electrical outlets before attaching the drywall panel to the wall (it is safer to cut before hanging the panel). However, you will cut out door and window openings after the drywall is hung for more accurate cuts. If the window openings are too difficult to access after the drywall is hung, then measure and cut as you would for electrical outlets before hanging the panel.
   • Use a rasp to smooth ragged cut edges.

   Tip

   When using a utility knife to score drywall, keep the blade short for more control and a straighter cut. A longer blade usually does not score a very straight line.

4. Hang the Drywall on the Ceiling

   Begin with the ceiling if you are covering both walls and ceiling with drywall. Wall panels should overlap ceiling drywall panels.

   • Space fasteners 12 inches apart when attaching drywall to ceiling joists spaced 16 inches in the center.
   • Apply drywall adhesive as you are attaching panels if you are using it.
   • Drive screws or nails into each joist behind the panel.
   • Attach fasteners every 8 inches along the non-tapered edges, but keep them at least 3/8 inches from the edge to avoid damaging the gypsum core.
   • If using nails, plan to drive a second nail 2 inches from the first at each fastener location, along the face of the drywall.

   Tip

   If you don't have access to rent a drywall lift, you can create one from two-by-fours. Attach a 4-foot-long piece of two-by-four lumber to a full-length piece of a two-by-four leg. This T-shaped brace should be about 1 inch taller than the height of the ceiling to hold the panel up to the right spot. Make two of them. An assistant will be needed to maneuver the drywall lift.

5. Lift Wall Panels Into Place

   • Start at the top with wall panels and work downward.
   • Rest the bottom edge of the panel on two screws driven temporarily into the studs (if you're working alone) about 50 inches below the ceiling.
   • Lift the panel onto the two screws.
   • Slide the panel up.
   • Drive a screw at the bottom of the panel into a center stud.
   • Work your way out and up the panel.
   • Continue to lift each panel into place on the screws.
   • Continue to grab your drill in one hand while sliding the panel into position with your other hand and shoulder.
   • Bottom panels should fit snugly against the top panels.

6. Install Backers Where Needed

   • Add a wood backer, which is a thin OSB board cut in about 4-foot long strips that are about 6 to 8 inches wide, where needed as you are hanging the panels. These are either placed behind a drywall edge that does not have the support of a stud or used to support two butted non-tapered edges of the drywall.
   • Screw non-tapered edges to a wood backer to create tapered edges, which are necessary for proper taping and finishing.

7. Attach Drywall From Top to Bottom

   • Attach the top sheets of drywall to the wall after covering the ceiling with drywall.
   • Start with the top and work your way down when installing drywall that is horizontally oriented. The idea is to make your cut side facing the floor, where it will be later covered up with baseboards.
   • Leave a 1/2-inch gap between the floor and the bottom of the drywall panel. This allows for expansion and prevents moisture from wicking up into the drywall if there's a flood.
   • Mark the locations of the wall studs on the edges of the ceiling drywall with a pencil. This will make it easier to find the stud centers when driving screws into the wall panels.

8. Drive Screws or Nails Into the Drywall

   Screws

   • Use the same process for adding drywall adhesive (if using) and screwing in drywall panels on the wall as you did the ceiling. Screw spacing should be 16 inches on the wall.
   • Drive screws below the surface of the drywall so that they can be covered with joint compound and sanded to create a smooth surface.
   • Use a cordless drill with an adjustable clutch to make sure the screws are slightly countersunk beneath the surface.
   • Do not drive them in deep because you do not want to tear the paper surface and damage the gypsum core. Once the paper is torn, much of the holding power of the fastener is lost. 

   Nails

   • Drive nails below the surface of the drywall, as with screws, so that they can be covered with tape, joint compound, and sanded to create a smooth surface.
   • Apply drywall adhesive (if using) before nailing.
   • Use a hammer that has a curved face which will leave just a small dimple around the nail head.
   • Use ring-shank drywall nails only, as these have a broad head that helps hold the drywall in place.
   • Nails should penetrate the framing at least 3/4 inch.

9. Cut and Trim Openings

   • Cut the sides of door and window openings with a utility knife, which will give you a cleaner cut.
   • Hinge the cutout out of the wall, then cut the rest of the opening.
   • Clean up the opening.

10. Check for Protruding Fastener Heads

    • Drag a putty knife gently over all the screws or nails when all the panels are hung. This is an important step before finishing the drywall.
    • If the knife trips over a screw head, you can either screw it in a tiny bit more with a screwdriver or drill but do not break the paper. Do not hammer it in.
    • If the knife trips over a nail head, use a nail set to drive it in a bit without breaking the paper.

Tips For Laying Out Drywall

• Place the same edges with each other: Wrapped edges should be paired with wrapped edges. The butt ends that are not wrapped with paper should be paired up with other butt ends.
• Hang perpendicular to the studs: With walls, hang the drywall sheets horizontally so that the long edge of the sheet is perpendicular to the studs. Do the same for ceilings: long edges at 90-degree angles to the joists.
• Use full sheets of drywall: Use full sheets instead of scraps for easier installation and smoother finishing 
• Don't use tapered edges on corners: Avoid using tapered drywall joints for outside corners, as thin edges make finishing harder 
• Use a second screw when necessary: Add a second screw next to any screws that ripped the paper