How to Hang Drywall

Hanging Drywall

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Project Overview
  • Working Time: 10 mins
  • Total Time: 10 mins - 1 hr
  • Yield: 1 installed drywall sheet
  • Skill Level: Intermediate
  • Estimated Cost: $10–$20

Hanging drywall is a crucial skill that you will return to over and over when remodeling a house. Successful drywall installation hinges on correctly anchoring the drywall panels to the framing members. Once you master the technique of hanging drywall, you can inexpensively finish rooms. Use our guide to learn the basics of how to measure, cut, and hang drywall (finishing drywall is a separate process required after installation).

What Is Hanging Drywall?

The terms hanging drywall and installing drywall are typically used interchangeably. Technically, hanging drywall defines only part of the entire process of installing drywall. Hanging drywall entails fastening the sheets to the wall framing and ceiling joists—all the work that is done prior to applying joint compound and sanding as part of the drywall finishing process.

Before You Begin

Installing drywall requires a lot of decision-making and skill acquisition. First, you will need to choose the type of drywall required for the room you are working on. Then after hanging the drywall panels, you will need to learn how to finish the joints. This includes a traditional dry-sanding joint compound and tape with sandpaper or a sanding screen or wet-sanding with a sponge to reduce the large amounts of dust the process creates.

Hanging drywall the right way is critical for reducing the amount of drywall compound that you apply to the walls. Drywall that's hung well needs very little taping and drywall compound.

Choose a Drywall Fastener: Screws or Nails

Drywall is attached to framing either with drywall screws or nails. Though drywall screws have become the fastener of choice for most drywall installations, do-it-yourselfers without access to drywall screw guns may like the speed and convenience of nailing up drywall. However, it is strongly recommended to screw drywall to ceilings for the support. In addition to fasteners, consider using drywall or construction adhesive.

Tip

There are pros and cons to using drywall or construction adhesive on studs and joists as you hang your panels. It adds gripping power, slightly reduces the amount of fasteners you need, and prevents fastener pops. However, it can be messy to use during installation and it's tough to remove glued drywall down the line.

Drywall Screws

Drywall screws have a fluted head designed to recess slightly below the surface of the drywall paper without breaking it. Choose coarse thread screws for the best hold through the gypsum core of the drywall and into the wood behind. Use fine thread screws for metal studs.

For do-it-yourselfers, the best tool for attaching drywall is a cordless drill with an adjustable clutch. Or use special drywall screw bits that fit into a drill chuck. These bits are designed to stop turning when the screw hits the desired depth.

Drywall Nails

Since many professional drywall installers use drywall screw guns, fewer installers use a hammer and nails to nail up drywall. If you have a lot of drywall to hang and don't own or wish to rent a drywall screw gun, nailing is a good, low-cost alternative.

Hammering drywall nails can be a more forgiving technique than driving drywall screws. Drywall screws tend to rapidly penetrate the drywall paper and tear through instantly. But with hammering, the broad, smooth head of the hammer allows for several hammer blows before the paper tears. While you can use the same process on the ceiling and walls, it's easier to nail drywall on walls than on the ceiling. Note that screws are more stable when installing drywall and some drywall nails tend to pop out of place over time.

What You'll Need

Equipment / Tools

  • Cordless drill
  • Step ladder
  • Hammer
  • Tape measure
  • Drywall square/T-square
  • Utility knife with sharp blade
  • Level or long straight board
  • Planer/power planer (optional)
  • Drywall lift
  • Drywall carrier
  • Putty knife
  • Drywall saw
  • Nail set (optional)
  • Rasp

Materials

  • Drywall sheets
  • Drywall fasteners (screws or ring-shank nails)
  • Shims
  • Wood glue or hot glue
  • Pencil and paper
  • Nail protector guard plates
  • OSB backer (optional)
  • Drywall/construction adhesive and gun (optional)

Instructions

  1. Check Wall Studs and Mark Lines

    Check the studs and joists for bows or twists before you start hanging the drywall. The finished walls will look best if the studs are as flat as possible.

    • Visually inspect the studs or joists to see if they are aligned in a straight plane.
    • To confirm alignment, hold a long, straight board or level across the framing.
    • If any framing members stick out, trim them with a saw or a power planer (especially for a large installation).
    • Then, fill in low spots with shims attached with nails or glue.
    • Run the head of the hammer up and down the studs (for remodels, not new-construction drywall installation) to check for stray screws or nails that will impede the drywall.
    • As you go along, mark electrical and plumbing lines so you do not accidentally drill or nail into them when hanging drywall. Consider using nail guard plates on studs for protection.

    Tip

    Although you can install drywall by yourself, the job will be much easier if you have an assistant. The assistant can help you lift and position the drywall sheets. While the assistant holds the sheet in position, you can tack the sheet in place with nails or screws.

    Or, consider using ultralight drywall for your project for easier application.

  2. Measure the Drywall

    • Measure the height and length of your walls.
    • Measure your ceiling (if you are drywalling the ceiling).
    • The measurements are necessary to estimate the amount of drywall you need to purchase.
    • Drywall panels come in different sizes and thicknesses. The standard sizes are 4 feet by 8 feet, 4 feet by 12 feet, and 4 by 16 feet. Choose the best size panels to fit your room. The correct size panels can reduce the amount of seams you have and the amount of finishing necessary.
    • Plan out the drywall installation on paper to determine whether it's best to hang the panels horizontally or vertically to reduce seams and non-tapered butt joints.
  3. Cut the Drywall

    Cut drywall to fit. It's rare to have a square room, which means cutting drywall to fit an area and that requires a trick or two.

    • Score the drywall on the lighter-colored side.
    • Score the drywall by cutting just through the paper and barely into the core of the panel with a sharp utility knife and a T-square.
    • Snap the scored piece. It may snap off completely or you will need to complete the cut by using your knife to cut through the rest of the paper.
    • If you need to use a drywall saw to cut a piece, use a little bit of pressure and make lots of fast, small movements when sawing. Long, slow sawing flexes and breaks drywall.
    • Measure, mark, and cut out openings for electrical outlets before attaching the drywall panel to the wall (it is safer to cut before hanging the panel). However, you will cut out door and window openings after the drywall is hung for more accurate cuts. If the window openings are too difficult to access after the drywall is hung, then measure and cut as you would for electrical outlets before hanging the panel.
    • Use a rasp to smooth ragged cut edges.

    Tip

    When using a utility knife to score drywall, keep the blade short for more control and a straighter cut. A longer blade usually does not score a very straight line.

  4. Hang the Drywall on the Ceiling

    Begin with the ceiling if you are covering both walls and ceiling with drywall. Wall panels should overlap ceiling drywall panels.

    • Space fasteners 12 inches apart when attaching drywall to ceiling joists spaced 16 inches on center.
    • Apply drywall adhesive as you are attaching panels if you are using it.
    • Drive screws or nails into each joist behind the panel.
    • Attach fasteners every 8 inches along the non-tapered edges, but keep them at least 3/8 inches from the edge to avoid damaging the gypsum core.
    • If using nails, plan to drive a second nail 2 inches from the first at each fastener location, along the face of the drywall.

    Tip

    You can rent a drywall lift or create one from two-by-fours. Attach a 4-foot-long piece of two-by-four lumber to a full-length piece of a two-by-four leg. This T-shaped brace should be about 1 inch taller than the height of the ceiling to hold the panel up to the right spot. Make two of them. An assistant will be needed to maneuver the drywall lift.

  5. Lift Wall Panels Into Place

    • Start at the top with wall panels and work downward.
    • Rest the bottom edge of the panel on two screws driven temporarily into the studs (if you're working alone) about 50 inches below the ceiling.
    • Lift the panel onto the two screws.
    • Slide the panel up.
    • Drive a screw at the bottom of the panel into a center stud.
    • Work your way out and up the panel.
    • Continue to lift each panel into place on the screws.
    • Continue to grab your drill in one hand while sliding the panel into position with your other hand and shoulder.
    • Bottom panels should fit snugly against the top panels.
  6. Prepare to Place Drywall on the Walls

    • Attach the top sheets of drywall to the wall after covering the ceiling with drywall.
    • Start with the top and work your way down when installing drywall that is horizontally oriented. The idea is to make your cut side facing the floor, where it will be later covered up with baseboards.
    • Leave a 1/2-inch gap between the floor and the bottom of the drywall panel. This allows for expansion and prevents moisture from wicking up into the drywall if there's a flood.
    • Mark the locations of the wall studs on the edges of the ceiling drywall with a pencil. This will make it easier to find the stud centers when driving screws into the wall panels.
    • Add wood backer where needed as you are hanging the panels.

    Tip

    Wood backers are used behind drywall for two reasons. It's placed behind a drywall edge that does not have the support of a stud. It is also used to support two butted non-tapered edges of drywall. Tapered edges are necessary for proper taping and finishing. Screwing non-tapered edges to a wood backer draws the non-tapered edges to the wall to create tapered edges.

    Wood backer is typically a thin OSB board cut in about 4-foot long strips that are about 6 to 8 inches wide or wider to be nailed between studs to create the needed support.

  7. Drive Screws Into Drywall

    • Use the same process for adding drywall adhesive (if using) and screwing in drywall panels on the wall as you did the ceiling.
    • Drive screws below the surface of the drywall so that they can be covered with joint compound and sanded to create a smooth surface.
    • Do not drive them in deep because you do not want to tear the paper surface and damage the gypsum core. Once the paper is torn, much of the holding power of the fastener is lost. 
    • A properly driven fastener is slightly countersunk beneath the surface.
    • Screw depth can be controlled on a cordless drill with an adjustable clutch.
    • Screws should penetrate the framing at least 5/8-inch, which means that easy-to-find 1-1/4-inch screws will suffice for both 1/2-inch and 5/8-inch drywall panels.
  8. Drive Nails Into Drywall

    • Drive nails below the surface of the drywall, as with screws, so that they can be covered with tape, joint compound, and sanded to create a smooth surface.
    • Apply drywall adhesive (if using) before nailing.
    • Use a hammer that has a curved face which will leave just a small dimple around the nail head.
    • Use ring-shank drywall nails only, as these have a broad head that helps hold the drywall in place.
    • Nails should penetrate the framing at least 3/4 inch.

    Tip

    Mainly made of the mineral gypsum, drywall is a considerably large, heavy, and unwieldy building material. Consider purchasing an inexpensive plastic drywall carrier that allows you to hold the drywall sheet at your side without twisting your arm.

  9. Cut and Trim Openings

    Cut and trim door and window openings with a utility knife or saw.

  10. Check for Protruding Fastener Heads

    • Drag a putty knife gently over all the screws or nails when all the panels are hung. This is an important step before finishing the drywall.
    • If the knife trips over a screw head, you can either screw it in a tiny bit more with a screwdriver or drill but do not break the paper. Do not hammer it in.
    • If the knife trips over a nail head, use a nail set to drive it in a bit without breaking the paper.

Tips For Laying Out Drywall

  • Place the same edges with each other: Wrapped edges should be paired with wrapped edges. The butt ends that are not wrapped with paper should be paired up with other butt ends.
  • Hang perpendicular to the studs: With walls, hang the drywall sheets horizontally so that the long edge of the sheet is perpendicular to the studs. Do the same for ceilings: long edges at 90-degree angles to the joists.
  • Stagger joints: Avoid the joints meeting in a cross-like manner. Instead, make sure that the joints are staggered as this increases the wall's overall strength. Use your drywall square to cut pieces to fit.